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Diversity In Fashion Is Essential—Especially When It Comes To Photographers

Fashion Week
Photos by Dia Dipasupil, Collage by Sarah Lutkenhaus

Let’s talk visibility, even when it’s not caught on camera

"Diversity" has become a huge buzzword in the fashion industry over the last few years, and we've finally started to see the results of the expanded conversation around inclusivity. This past NYFW, runways featured pregnant models, an all-trans casting, models with disabilities. and more. But what about the industry people who aren't in front of the lens? Gains in diversity are easy enough to measure when they have literal visual representation, but it's much harder to take note of an industry’s change (or lack thereof) when it’s not as tangibly documented.

Dia Dipasupil is here to change that. The Getty staff photographer (and a trans woman of color) has been a force to be reckoned with on the press risers since 2010, making this season her 16th NYFW. She’s been a staff member at Getty for only a year and a half, but a contributor for much longer, snagging its attention after shooting Justin Timberlake on a film set in Tribeca. Dipasupil said she’d long been taking photos (and was even her family photographer as a kid), but it was always more of a hobby. “Around the time that I decided to transition and came out as trans, it was also a turning point for my career perspective,” she says.

“It’s quite a challenge because the schedule is grueling,” Dipasupil tells us about working so many NYFW shows. “There are times where I start very, very early in the morning and don’t finish well into the evening, almost the next day, and then you have to rinse and repeat and do the same thing the following day for the whole week.”

Dipasupil was forward about the lack of diversity around her: “It’s no secret [the photography industry is] dominated by men. It’s always been the case.” Apart from the general difficulties women face when working in a male-dominated field, the logistics of fashion photography add a new layer. “There’s a lot of challenges for a young female photographer, especially on the riser, because there’s so much territorial fighting going on there because you know your position,” Dipasupil says.  “Especially if you’re shooting for the house or a big magazine or something, it’s critical if you're not in the middle section.”

“They see someone who is young or female or in my case trans and Asian and so on, [and] there's a lot of condescension and a lot of bullying. It’s tough sometimes—it’s really tough.” 

While security or event staff can sometimes step in for assistance, Dipasupil has made sure to use her voice and experience to offer assistance when she notices it is needed, helping young women on the risers to stand their ground amongst the men. 

“The good thing is there are more women on the risers now and covering fashion week in general behind the camera,” she says. “It’s still, unfortunately, not a good mix yet. It’s increasing, and it’s improving and the inclusivity is improving, but it’s still got a long way to go.” 

A possible solution to creating change behind the lens? Role models and mentors to pave the way. “A lot of young women photographers don’t realize that they can exist and be successful in those roles that typically they weren’t involved in or have no exposure to. Letting them know that hey, there are successful female and diverse LGBTQ photographers and stylists and so on, in whatever part of the industry, [will help]. They’re there, but they need to see them,” Dipasupil says.

Diversity behind the lens will mean diversity of the art produced. Dipasupil explains, “We capture the same scene maybe differently than a straight white man, which is most of the industry. I think, in some cases, maybe I’m showing the subject matter in a little different light, and a lot of women photographers certainly show and capture imagery in a different way than men might.”

Dipasupil points out that, while some NYFW shows are inclusive—Marco Marco featured a lineup of all-trans models—and trans actresses on television provide amazing visibility, that's just one side of the diversity equation. “You see a lot of the trans actresses and models—Laverne Cox, and Janet Mock, and Carmen Carrera, and all these really beautiful trans women,” she says. “Folks see the glamorous side of it all the time, but there’s a lot, lot more to that, not just for trans women but the LGBTQ community, and a lot of the challenges that we still face. There’s so much more behind what’s happening in my life and the other trans folks and the challenges we’ve faced with basic life needs—like housing and health care and employment. I’m so lucky to have a job with Getty as a trans woman of color doing the job I'm doing, when most of my trans friends and people in the community are unemployed and homeless, and they’re just struggling to get health care—and I have all of that.”

And even though Dipasupil has an enviable staff position now, that doesn't mean she hasn't faced problems. She says, “I’ve definitely encountered a lot of discrimination in the work environment, and I try to deal with it in a very positive way. I can certainly go the opposite direction, and get angry and lash out, but that doesn’t help. I try to educate people who, when they are discriminating or treating someone different a little poorly, are just not aware that that’s not what you do or what you say. And I try to educate and steer it in a positive direction." 

But, Dipasupil points out, "Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, but it’s a challenge. It’s an everyday challenge. Not just at work, but on the street and living my life. But people are seeing the awareness, the awareness is increasing, and they're starting to understand what the trans community is about. The acceptance, more importantly, is increasing too. I’ve seen it over the past 10 years shooting with Getty, and I know it will continue to improve and I hope it does in a faster way."

Kirstin Benson, VP of Global Entertainment at Getty Images, says that companies like Getty know their job is to represent the diverse world around it, in front of and behind the lens. "If we’re going to change what’s happening behind the camera," Benson says, "people on all levels must hold themselves, their companies, and providers accountable. It’s no easy feat, and requires a total culture change and a strong commitment to that change. It’s on all of us to talk about it and continue to challenge the status quo, which can often times feel uncomfortable—but change is uncomfortable. As a content company, our imagery is everywhere, which is why Getty Images recognizes our role and responsibility in ensuring that content is an authentic representation of the world around us. To do that, the storytellers need to actually reflect the audience."

Benson points out that, while newsrooms' high turnover can help promote hiring more diverse staffers at a higher rate, in photography, seniority and years of practice are often used as an excuse for keeping the existing power structure in place. "But we are working to change that," Benson assures. 

As for making sure that increasing diversity behind the lens doesn't result in unsafe working conditions amongst the male-dominated press risers, Benson says communication is key. "When you give an opportunity to someone who might not have had it before, the challenge then is for that person to have the resilience and spirit to go through with the experience—it can be a tough industry! We encourage our photographers to be open about their experiences and share it with their colleagues. It’s not their job to educate, but open, honest communication does help build empathy and awareness among colleagues." 

Dipasupil is surely doing that, talking with us and maintaining her welcoming stature on the risers. We can only hope that others follow suit to make NYFW feel welcoming to all. 

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Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images

"In my head I thought, This is how it ends"

Kit Harington almost lost a lot more than the Iron Throne while filming the final season of Game of Thrones. According to an interview with NowThis News, the actor almost lost one of his balls while riding a mechanical dragon.

Harington revealed that the incident took place when he was filming the scene where his character, Jon Snow, takes a ride on Rhaegal for the first time in the Season 8 premiere. Since dragons aren't real (sorry), Harington was filming the scene, where Jon almost falls off the dragon and then swings around to pick himself back up, on a mechanical contraption.

"My right ball got trapped, and I didn't have time to say, 'Stop,'" Harington said in an interview. "And I was being swung around. In my head I thought, This is how it ends. On this buck, swinging me around by my testicles, literally." We see shots of the fake dragon he's riding in front of a green screen, and it does look pretty terrifying.

Luckily, his testicles remained intact through the near-disastrous event, and he's survived with quite the story to tell to unsuspecting journalists.

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FROM THE WORLD WIDE WEB
Photo by Phillip Faraone/Getty Images for goop

"I had to create a harder shell about being a woman"

In a panel discussion during Gwyneth Paltrow's In Goop Health summit, actress Jessica Alba revealed that she "stopped eating" to avoid unwanted attention from men when she was first starting her career in Hollywood.

According to People, Alba said that she "had a curvy figure as a young girl" and, as such, was made to feel as though her body was the reason that men may be inappropriate toward her. "I was meant to feel ashamed if I tempted men," Alba said during the panel discussion. "Then I stopped eating a lot when I became an actress. I made myself look more like a boy so I wouldn't get as much attention. I went through a big tomboy phase."

She continued, "In Hollywood, you're really preyed upon. They see a young girl, and they just want to touch you inappropriately or talk to you inappropriately or think that they're allowed to be aggressive with you in a way."

Alba also noted that she was raised in a conservative household. "My mom would say, 'You have a body, and it's very womanly, and people don't understand that you're 12,'" she said. "I wasn't allowed to have my nalgas out, which is butt cheeks [in Spanish], but I was born with a giant booty, and they come out of everything. So, I didn't get to wear normal things that all my friends wore."

She said that these reactions to her body really affected her attitude. "I created this pretty insane 'don't fuck with me' [attitude]," she said. "I had to create a harder shell about being a woman."

According to her, her relationship to her body only changed when her first child, Honor, was born in 2008. "[After she was born,] I was like, Oh this is what these boobies are meant to do! Feed a kid!" she said. "And that was the dopest shit I'd ever done. So, I came into my body as a woman finally and I stopped being ashamed of myself."

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Photo courtesy of Teva

Because of course

Teva, the most obvious lesbian footwear brand since Birkenstock, really knows its customer base. In time for Pride, the brand has teamed up with Tegan and Sara for a gay shoe to end all gay shoes. In other words, your Pride footwear is on lock.

The shoe isn't just your average Teva sandal. Tegan and Sara's design, the Teva Flatform Universal Pride sandal, is a 2.5-inch platform shoe with a rainbow sole. Tegan and Sara noted in a press release that they have been Teva wearers for pretty much their whole lives. "We got our first pair of Teva sandals when we were 16," they said. "This rainbow Flatform collab is like full circle LGBTQ+ Pride validation."

What's better, with each sandal sale, Teva will donate $15 to the Tegan and Sara Foundation, up to $30,000. The funds donated will go toward scholarships which will give young members of the LGBTQ+ community the chance to go to summer camps which will "help develop self-confidence and leadership abilities in a safe and nurturing environment." Tegan and Sara added, "Teva's generous support for our foundation will allow us to help even more LGBTQ+ youth."

Available today at Teva's and Nordstrom's websites, the sandal retails for $80.

Photo courtesy of Teva

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Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images

"Focusing on innovative materials will allow the company to explore new boundaries of creative design"

Prada Group has announced that Prada, as well as all of its brands, will now be fur-free. According to a press release from the Humane Society, Prada, Miu Miu, Church's, and Car Shoe will ban the use of fur beginning with the Spring/Summer 2020 collection (aka the Fashion Week coming up next). The list of fashion designers banning fur only continues to grow, with 3.1 Phillip Lim, Coach, Armani, Versace, Gucci, and more having stopped using the material in seasons past.

"The Prada Group is committed to innovation and social responsibility, and our fur-free policy—reached following a positive dialogue with the Fur Free Alliance, in particular with LAV and the Humane Society of the United States—is an extension of that engagement," Miuccia Prada told the Human Society. "Focusing on innovative materials will allow the company to explore new boundaries of creative design while meeting the demand for ethical products."

Following London Fashion Week designers forgoing the use of fur in September and the first-ever Vegan Fashion Week taking place in February, it's easy to imagine an entirely fur-free fashion future. It's especially easy, I presume, for the brands to consider a fur-free future, given that entire cities and states are taking a stance. New York is following in the footsteps of Los Angeles banning fur, with a bill proposed this March that would ban sales across New York State.

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Photo by Johnny Dufort

"Club leisure" is the new athleisure

Alexander Wang is recognizing clubbing as the workout that it truly is with his latest Adidas collaboration. In this fifth installment, he "changes gears," per a press release from the brand, taking the iconic sports brand to the dance floor.

For the new campaign, the collection comes to life in iconic choreographer Tanisha Scott's dance studio and stars dancers Noemi Janumala, Dakota Moore, Avi McClish, and Olivia Burgess. The dancers show just how far these clothes can go when you want to bust a move or stretch, but TBH, I'll leave these poses to the pros and just use my clothes for flexing on the 'gram.

The collection—which features six apparel items, three shoes, and six accessories—features, per a press release, "Wang's knack for pre-styling." Standouts from the mostly black-and-white items include a silver sneaker that was *made* for moonwalking, an airy windbreaker that has just the right dash of bright blue with the scattered Adidas trefoil design, and a towel hoodie that you won't feel bad sweating in.

Ahead of the May 25 collection drop online and in stores, peep the gorgeous campaign images below.

Photo by Johnny Dufort

Adidas Originals by AW, Sweatshirt in Black, $250, available starting May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Towel, $80, available starting May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Joggers, $250, available starting May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Turnout BBall Shoes, $250, available starting May 25 at Adidas.

Photo by Johnny Dufort

Adidas Originals by AW, Towel Hoodie, $350, available starting May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Sock Leggings, $60, available starting May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Adilette Slides, $90, available starting May 25 at Adidas.

Photo by Johnny Dufort

Adidas Originals by AW, Futureshell Shoes in Platinum Metallic, $250, available starting May 25 at Adidas.

Photo by Johnny Dufort

Adidas Originals by AW, Sweatshirt in Core White, $280, available starting May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Shorts in Core White, $120, available starting May 25 at Adidas.

Photo by Johnny Dufort

Adidas Originals by AW, Sweatshirt in Black, $250, available starting May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Bum Bag, $50, available staring May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Towel, $80, available starting May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Turnout BBall Shoes, $250, available starting May 25 at Adidas; Adidas Originals by AW, Duffle Bag, $70, available starting May 25 at Adidas.

NYLON uses affiliate links and may earn a commission if you purchase something through those links, but every product chosen is selected independently.


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