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Revisiting The Iconic Camp Aesthetics Of ‘Velvet Goldmine’

Culture
Screenshot via YouTube

Todd Haynes’ ode to ’70s glam rock turns 20 this fall

"The hallmark of Camp is the spirit of extravagance," wrote Susan Sontag in her 1964 essay, "Notes on 'Camp,'" which, as it happens, is the basis for the 2019 Met Gala's theme.

Velvet Goldmine, Todd Haynes’ 1998 glam rock epic (and thinly veiled Bowie biopic) is animated by extravagance. The film became a cult classic due to its Citizen Kane-esque fallen icon narrative, vibrant cinematography, overtly queer themes, and a soundtrack featuring the likes of Brian Eno and Thom Yorke. It oscillates between a dreary dystopian reimagining of New York in 1984 and flashbacks to the musical wellspring of London in the '70s, featuring a motley cast of characters whose wardrobes are at once distinctly dated and timeless even 20 years later. 

The looks in the film won acclaimed costume designer and power suit goddess Sandy Powell a BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design in 1999, and seem to have prophesied the current revival of vintage. The inherent camp of Velvet Goldmine's '90s-does-'70s styling, with its ultra-saturated colors and fantastical silhouettes, lends itself to an exaggeratedness that feel suddenly chic in the era of UNIF and Dolls Kill. 

Sontag argues that an important part of the camp sensibility is "the ambition on the part of one man to do what it takes a generation, a whole culture to accomplish." Velvet Goldmine was a lofty undertaking by Haynes, who approached the film as a sort of period piece of the glam subculture. Haynes, who is known for consistently doing right by fringe narratives, was conscious of the over-the-top artifice of the film's cinematography, saying, "I took [the glam] tenets—dressing up and being fantastical and non-authentic—and tried to apply them to a film." At the core of this movie is a decidedly authentic story about coming to terms with one's past in order to embrace the future, all cloaked in heaps of pleather and faux fur. Regardless of the apparent superficiality of the aesthetics, they're worth re-examining, especially from the vantage point of the age of social media. As Andrew Bolton, curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, said in a statement regarding the Met Gala, "We are going through an extreme camp moment."

Below, we compiled some of the most memorable characters and their aesthetics, in honor of the film's 20th anniversary this month.

Screenshot via YouTube

The dandy virtuoso Brian Slade (played by Jonathan Rhys Myers) is the focal point of the film. Slade’s ever-evolving wardrobe draws from a hodgepodge of influences, ranging from rococo opulence and raggedy bohemianism to sleek androgyny and space-age technicolor palettes. As the spearhead of the glam rock movement whose mysterious disappearance from the public eye drives the plot, Slade cycles through numerous subcultures and styles before settling on his ubiquitous glittery decadence as he transforms into Maxwell Demon, his alien alter ego. As his fame crescendos, Slade's looks seem to get more and more post-human, integrating body paint, reptilian prosthetics, and wigs. He quickly becomes a style icon and is emulated obsessively by his teenage fanatics.

Screenshot via YouTube

In the opening credits, crowds of teenagers (including a guest appearance from the band Placebo) run through the streets of London to catch Brian Slade in concert. The camera hones in on the youthful exuberance of the colorful bunch of kids, catching fleeting close-ups on platform boots, flares, shag trim, and shimmering makeup. Their cult fanaticism catapults Slade and his crowd into the public eye, and they consistently bring their style A-game as they bear witness to Maxwell Demon's rise and untimely downfall. When Slade fakes his death as part of an ill-received publicity stunt, he disappears from the public eye, leaving his fans baffled for years to come.

Screenshot via YouTube

The film’s protagonist, Arthur Stuart (Christian Bale), is a journalist who must reckon with his past involvement in the London music scene of the '70s as he investigates the disappearance of Slade. Having come to terms with his queerness through his adolescent idolatry of the singer, one of Arthur’s early flashbacks poignantly captures the reality of coming of age in a conservative, homophobic environment: He sneaks past his parents wearing a bulky coat, which he ditches in the bushes outside his house to reveal a flamboyant cropped T-shirt before going cruising. To piece together the musician's elusive past, he relies on the flashbacks of those close to Slade, namely his American ex-wife, Mandy.

Screenshot via YouTube

As the (alleged) likeness of Angela Bowie, Mandy (played by Toni Collette) undergoes a style metamorphosis that reflects that of her husband in the early years of his career. Over the course of the film, she shifts from vaudevillian frills to Stevie Nicks-type caftans before she reaches her full, most colorful potential as the reigning first lady of glam. “It’s funny how beautiful people look when they’re walking out the door,” she laments, recounting her marriage's dissolution. Appropriately, Mandy’s fierce, unhinged beauty is perhaps at its most refined when she serves Slade divorce papers in a fabulous multicolor cheetah trench coat, having been pushed to her breaking point by his excessive drug use and infidelity.

 

Screenshot via YouTube

Slade’s primary extramarital lover, Curt Wild (played by Ewan McGregor), represents the grimier side of the rock lifestyle, with his feral energy and a more in-your-face approach to androgyny by way of chipped black nail polish, body glitter, and smeared eyeliner. After he eventually falls out with Slade, it is revealed that Wild hooked up with a younger Arthur after a show, a formative moment in his self-discovery. Wild is both the fulcrum of the journalist's acceptance of his own queerness and also the embodiment of the subversion inherent to being loudly, openly gay in a time like the '70s. Prior to their breakup, Wild's very public affair with Slade causes a media frenzy, making him one of the most salient members of his entourage.

Screenshot via YouTube

When Slade’s career explodes, his manager (played by Eddie Izzard) hires a curated, hedonistic group of sycophants, essentially just to hang around and look cool. “I’m not really myself except in the midst of elegant crowds,” purrs one of the women flanking the singer during an elaborate press conference. "Elegant," is a choice word here; draped in gold lamé and pearls, the group of hanger-ons is kitsch. The artful haughtiness, coupled with ridiculous fashions, evades any standards of tastefulness. The entourage is a testament to the superficiality of the subculture; any vestige of substance is veiled in absurd spectacle. 

Critical reception of Velvet Goldmine was mixed, and often perplexed. CNN's review following its initial release dismissed the film as "a bunch of fey lip-smacking and film student in-jokes." A success by camp standards, the reaction to Haynes's work perpetuates Sontag's definition of the style: "Art that proposes itself seriously, but cannot be taken altogether seriously because it is 'too much.'" In its excess, Velvet Goldmine has carved out a place for itself in the cult canon of cinema for years to come.

Photo by Imani Givertz

Premiering today via NYLON

Small Talks, aka Cayley Spivey, has come a long way since starting a band, then becoming the entire band herself and forging her own fan base from the ground up. On her recent album A Conversation Between Us, she began to unpack any lingering baggage with one particular song: "Teeth." Today, she premieres the accompanying music video exclusively via NYLON.

"'Teeth' is about my personal battle with letting go of the past," Spivey tells NYLON, admitting that it's easily her favorite song off of A Conversation Between Us.

Watch the video for "Teeth" below.

Small Talks - Teeth (Official Music Video) - YouTube www.youtube.com

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Photos by Joe Maher/Getty Images, Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for TIME

Must have been pretty awkward

Taylor Swift and Sophie Turner were guests on the U.K.'s The Graham Norton Show together, which must have been awkward for Turner's husband, Joe Jonas, seeing as he also happens to be Swift's ex. I wonder if his name came up?

The interview doesn't come out until Friday night, but promotional photos show the two sharing a couch. Swift is making an appearance to perform her new single, "ME!" while Turner is promoting her new film, X- Men: Dark Phoenix. But it seems necessary for the two to be asked about Jonas.

Swift was just on the Ellen DeGeneres Show earlier this month, where she brought up the fact that she felt bad for putting Jonas "on blast" on DeGeneres' show back in 2008 by telling the audience that he broke up with her in a record-setting short phone call. But, according to Swift, she and Jonas are chill now, since it happened pretty long ago, which means she's probably already hung out with Turner and maybe even gossiped about him with her.

We can only hope that they get the chance to spill some tea on television.

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Screenshot via YouTube, Photo Courtesy of HBO

"That's! His! Auntie!"

Leslie Jones has rewatched the Game of Thrones finale with a beer in hand, Seth Meyers at her side, and a full camera crew ready to take in all her glorious reactions. Spoilers ahead, but, if you haven't watched last week's episode already, that's kind of on you at this point.

When Jon Snow started to make out with Daenerys, also known as his aunt, only to stab her through the chest moments later, it was emotional whiplash for everyone watching. And, Jones' reactions—both from her first and second viewing—sum it all perfectly.

"That's! His! Auntie! [gagging noises]," Jones says before making an aside about calling the police if her uncle ever tried to do the same. But then the knife goes in, and Jones screams. "Did you see that?!" Jones asks, "Yeah bitch, that's a knife in you." Meyers points out the funniest part of all: "Why are you so upset about someone kissing their aunt but totally fine with someone killing their aunt?" Jones replies, "Because that bitch needed to go," and, well, same.

Other highlights from the comedians' rewatch include comparing Dany's victory speech to a bad improv gig, predicting that their dogs would have less of a reaction to their deaths than Drogon did to his mother's, and more.

Watch all of Jones' reactions from this Late Night clip below.

Game of Jones: Leslie Jones and Seth Watch Game of Thrones' Series Finale youtu.be

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These lyrics are a lot

Robbie Tripp, aka Curvy Wife Guy, is back with a music video, titled "Chubby Sexy," starring his wife and a trio of models. In it, Tripp raps about his bold choice to find women with an average body size attractive.

The video begins with a series of statements laid over some pool water: "Curves are the new high fashion," "Chubby is the new sexy," "We Out Here." Tripp posits that these queens deserve an anthem, which they do. What they do not deserve is this Cursed Song. As he lists all the names he knows to call them by (thick, thicc, and BBW), one model (who I really, really hope was paid well) squirts some lotion down her cleavage, and Tripp begins dancing.

"My girl chubby sexy/ Call her bonita gordita," Tripp states in his chorus, before going on to compare "big booty meat" to the peach emoji. Another thing he mentions is that his wife can't find a belt that fits her waist, and that's why he calls her James and the Giant Peach. He then tries to dab. Here are some of the other Cursed highlights from his, uh, verses:

Got those Khaleesi curves/ Knows how to dragon slay
She like a dude that's woke/ We like a girl that's weighty
Some say a chubby girl that's risky/ But they ain't met a curvy girl that's frisky
Imma dunk that donk like I'm Andrew Wiggins.
Thick like an Amazon/ Built like Big Ben.

Tripp says one thing in the video that I couldn't agree more with: "She don't need a man." No, she does not. Please run. If you must, watch the entire video, below. Or send it to your nemesis!

Robbie Tripp - Chubby Sexy (Official Music Video) www.youtube.com

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Photo by Emma McIntyre / Getty Images.

See the promo here

It was bound to happen. The Kadashians and Jenners have committed themselves to letting the cameras roll on their lives, for better or for worse. So if you thought that the Jordyn Woods and Tristan Thompson cheating scandal was off limits, you thought wrong. The trailer for Sunday's episode of Keeping Up with the Kardashians was just released, and it involves the famous family working through the fallout of what happened when Woods went to a party at Thompson's house.

The teaser includes the infamous clip of Khloé Kardashian screaming "LIAAAARRRRRR." It's still not explicitly clear who prompted that strong response. She could be responding to Thompson, who clearly isn't always honest. Or she could be reacting to Woods account of the events on Red Table Talk. But the most revealing moment comes when we see Kylie Jenner—who was Woods' best friend before all of this happened—react for the first time.

In a heart-to-heart conversation, momager Kris Jenner says, "For you and Jordyn, it's like a divorce." Kylie only offers this in response: "She fucked up." Based on Woods' version of events—which I'm inclined to believeThompson is the one who fucked up. Still, I'm hoping for some kind of reconciliation between the two longtime friends. Perhaps we'll have to wait until next season for that.

Check out the promo video below.

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