Lou Dallas’ Daring, Western-Tinged Return To New York Fashion Week

Raffaella Hanley is deeply sleep deprived, but I understand why — the designer behind Lou Dallas has just returned to New York Fashion Week on Feb. 14 after a two-year hiatus. Lou Dallas’ FW 2024 collection picked up where Hanley left off: her dreamy femininity and gracefulness now further chopped and screwed with daring Western elements and striking bold deadstock materials. Models strutted down the runway in a Tribeca carpet store in star-studded cowgirl jackets paired with colorful rosettes and billowing ruffles and pants adorned with rodeo-ready fringe. It’s a freeing and abstract return to form for Hanley, whose designs bring a crucial edge of fantasy to the day-to-day.

Following her runway show, Hanley caught up with NYLON to discuss her memories with fringe pants, working with stylist Stella Greenspan, and the biggest insights from her fashion week hiatus.

What made you feel ready to return to NYFW?

The moment just sort of happened. It wasn't so planned. Organically, I was like, “Let's do it now. The clothes look good.” It was just waiting for that, I just wanted the clothes to look good.

And they did.

And they did! I feel like I’m finally surrounded with the right people who can really execute the vision as I see it in my head, but couldn't necessarily do it when it was just me sewing in my parents' attic.

Speaking of your team, Stella Greenspan’s styling was fantastic. What was your vision for her?

I've just worked with Stella since 2017. She's done almost all my runway shows. It was really exciting to have her come back. It was this reunion and it felt so right. And we just vibe off each other. It’s intuitive.

Do you have a favorite look from this collection?

I love the last look [with the cobalt blue ruffles.] I'm a fan of the fringe leather western pants.

It’s cool that there’s so many Western elements in this collection at a time when there’s been a big country pivot in culture.

For me, the fabric came first. It was the fringe more than a cowgirl aesthetic. I remember my friend had these fab fringe pants. And so really, the inspiration for that came from this memory, he would come out at night in fringe pants. It was a feeling.

What's your biggest insight from taking a hiatus?

This doesn't get any easier. [Laughs]

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.