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Get To Know These Sustainable And Size-Inclusive Brands

Designers

They're intersecting at two of fashion's most important movements

When we look at how the fashion industry has changed over the past decade, it's clear that there are two major movements happening. The first is a shift toward sustainability, and the second is one toward inclusivity—specifically as it relates to sizing.

However, it's still uncommon to find a brand that does both. There's a serious lack in size diversity when it comes to today's sustainable brands—both established and emerging—and on the flip side, many of today's most beloved size-inclusive and plus labels have quite a lot of work to do in terms of their sustainability efforts.

With that said, the brands that are doing both? They're at the forefront of this revolution, and, simply put, they are the future.

We highlighted six brands putting an effort towards making the fashion industry a better place overall: one that's less polluting and that creates with sustainability and the future of our planet in mind, while also prioritizing inclusivity and encompassing all body types and sizes. Get to know each of these brands a little better, below.

Big Bud Press

Photo courtesy of Big Bud Press

If you're looking to bring a bit of color (and sunshine) into your wardrobe, Los Angeles brand Big Bud Press might be the label for you. Founded by Lacey Micallef back in 2015, the brand consists of an inclusive and colorful range of unisex apparel and accessories—our personal favorite being its rainbow array of boiler suits.

All of its clothing styles are offered in a range of sizes from XXS up to 5XL, thus catering to a wide range of body types. Everything is also made in Los Angeles, where the brand is headquartered, and the clothes are constructed almost entirely at factories and shops owned and operated by women and POC, with guidelines for both ethical production practices and treatment of workers. Big Bud Press also tries to use only sustainable fabrics made from plant fibers as much as possible, making sure never to use any synthetics.

In terms of inclusivity in the world of sustainable fashion, Micallef stresses that it's a problem across the industry. "I sincerely feel there's a serious lack of inclusivity in all aspects of fashion," she says. "How can you ignore such a large percentage of the population? So few people fit into the size window offered by most brands—why is that the standard window? If [a brand] as small as us can do it, I don't understand why other's can't as well."

Girlfriend Collective

Photo courtesy of Girlfriend Collective

Girlfriend Collective believes that health and wellness comes in a multitude of shapes and sizes and that representation matters, which is why you'll find its range of activewear—featuring multiple styles of sports bras, leggings, and shorts in clean, minimalist silhouettes—offered in sizes ranging from XXS up to 6XL, and photographed on models that represent this range. "Everyone should be more inclusive, including us," co-founders Ellie and Quang Dinh tell us. "Everyone deserves to be represented in marketing and messaging, and our goal is to keep that top of mind and be better every day."

While its extensive size range and high-end fit and feel is a major focus for the brand, so are its practices in sustainability. It puts a lot of effort into being as transparent as possible, and so it has chosen every part of its process—from raw materials to facilities and partners—with the utmost care.

On top of using a range of recycled and eco-friendly textiles (like recycled polyester and recycled nylon) and dyes, Girlfriend Collective also consciously treats its wastewater at a plant located 100 feet away from its machines, before it is released back into the earth. Its leftover dye mud gets turned into paving stones to create better sidewalks for its community. Most recently, it teamed up with Rent The Runway to host a pre-Earth Day "plogging" (or jogging while picking up litter) event, organizing a group of people to help clean up the Hudson River Greenway in New York City.

And Comfort

Photo courtesy of And Comfort

A minimalist's dream, And Comfort creates wardrobe essentials in premium sustainable fabrics, offering its designs in an inclusive size range from 10 to 28.

Founded by Karine Hsu and Jeffrey Zhao in 2017, the name derived from its fit process. Each design is fitted on at least 25 different fit models across its entire size set, allowing And Comfort to tweak even the tiniest adjustments between sizes, ensuring that its product is not only inclusive but also fits every body properly. "The fit process most brands currently use is not one developed with different body shapes and sizes in mind," Hsu says. "It generally varies from brand to brand, but it typically involves using just one fit model to test pieces on. Naturally, the process often results in poor fits for different body shapes and sizes."

Of course, sustainability and ethical production are other aspects important to the brand (and, well, what makes it comfortable). Rather than use plastic textiles such as polyester, the brand works with natural fibers such as organic cotton and Tencel derived from recycled eucalyptus trees, which are not only obviously more sustainable choices, but also more breathable, durable, and comfortable. The brand also works with a small, family-owned artisan factory located in Ningbo, China, that has been working with designers to create responsible, sustainable, and ethical clothing for over 50 years.

Alice Alexander

Photo courtesy of Alice Alexander

Looking to revamp your wardrobe with timeless staples and basics that you actually can feel good about? Look no further than Alice Alexander. The Philadelphia-based brand was founded as a one-woman, one-sewing machine label back in 2017, after founder Mary Alice Duff realized the serious lack of size diversity in the world of sustainable fashion. Fast-forward to two years later, and her brand is thriving, having grown to a team of five.

The sustainable and ethical size-inclusive brand is made entirely in Philadelphia and sold through a direct-to-consumer, made-to-order model, which allows it to create clothing for a multitude of body types, use some of the most sustainable materials out there, and cut down majorly on potential waste. You'll find its offering of bodysuits, tees, outerwear, and more offered not only in sizes XS up to 4X but also a variety of lengths, from petite to tall.

Everything is made from earth-friendly, biodegradable materials such as linen, hemp, organic cotton, and more, with any leftover scraps being responsibly recycled. Recycled and recyclable packing materials are also used, ensuring that the process is green from start to finish. And considering that Duff built manufacturing capability herself, rather than outsourcing production to outside factories, it's possible for her to ensure garments are made ethically and workers are paid fair wages.

"There is an incredible lack of size-inclusivity in the ethical and sustainable fashion space, and an overwhelming majority of ethical and sustainable brands do not cater to women over a size 14," says Duff. "Furthermore, the overall aesthetic of sustainable and ethical fashion is thin, young, and white. I'm of the belief that there are firmly held stereotypes about plus-size bodies—whether it's conscious or not—that dissuade ethical brands from including larger bodies in their design."

Duff feels that the improvements and changes that need to happen industry-wide are not necessarily going to come from the established ethical and sustainable mainstays, but are rather going to be put into motion by the new and emerging inclusive brands—like hers, of course.

Dazey LA

Photo courtesy of Dazey LA

Dazey LA is a T-shirt line and e-commerce store that serves to empower women through conversation. Every collection launched by the brand is inspired by and revolves around subjects that modern women struggle with, with the purpose of inspiring its customers to talk and share, and providing a platform for these conversations to happen. All of its apparel is made from organic cotton and is hand-drawn and handmade to order in Los Angeles, with the intention to create zero overproduction and textile waste. In addition to its own line, the site proudly carries ethical apparel and accessories created by other female entrepreneurs, highlighting these women on the brand's Boss Blog along the way.

While Dazey LA strives to be as size-inclusive as possible, founder Dani Nagel is consistently working on expanding its range. She recognizes the serious lack of size inclusivity within the sustainable fashion market but explains that, especially for a smaller brand, it can sometimes be tough to offer a widely expansive range right off the bat. "The intersection of sustainable and size-inclusive fashion is a total underserved market," she says. "Dazey has been expanding its size offerings for some time now, but, as a small brand on a budget, it has been hard and slow-going. Most sustainable brands are also small on top of having high production costs and tight margins."

It wasn't until she attended an inclusive fashion panel and heard the plus-size blogger speakers talk about the struggle it is to find ethically made apparel in their size, that she became determined to speed up that process. The brand recently put out a campaign, teaming up with the founders of the body positive podcast She's All Fat, to raise the money to aid in its mission to expand its sizing, which is proving to be a success. "For the first time, we offered our tees in sizing up to 4X, and all proceeds from that design go directly into funding our size-inclusive initiative. We hope more brands follow suit because all women deserve beautiful, ethical apparel."

Reformation

Photo courtesy of Reformation

When it comes to millennials and shopping sustainably, Reformation is likely one of the first brands to come to mind. It puts sustainability at the core of everything it does, from eco-conscious fabric and textile selection to its carbon footprint and green infrastructure of its factories to its waste and energy footprints. It's also transparent about every aspect of the process, from production to finished product. The result is a line of effortlessly feminine dresses and separates with a laid-back L.A. vibe.

However, up until recently, it was also known for being limited in terms of sizing. Then, back in March 2018, it launched its first plus-size capsule collection in collaboration with model Ali Tate Cutler. While this capsule was limited-run (and, thus, sold out quickly), the brand decided to make extended sizing part of its permanent collection, bringing it back permanently this past March. This new iteration features a number of the brand's classic and loved styles in sizes 1X to 3X and 14 to 24.

The fact that Reformation brought it back as a permanent extension of the line is a good sign for the fashion industry as a whole. We hope that it will influence other major players in the sustainable fashion space to recognize that consumers want clothing that is both sustainable and inclusive, and they want it now.

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Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue

"I am honored to share this bonding experience with my own daughter"

In a heart-warming Instagram photo, Serena Williams shares the history of hair braiding and the importance of the tradition. The tennis player shared a photo of herself braiding her daughter Olympia Ohanian's hair and spoke about how "honored" she was to be able to "add another generation" to the tradition of the practice.

The photo shows Williams attentively braiding her daughter's hair while Olympia smiles, obviously loving the experience. Williams noted that hair braiding was created by the Himba people in Namibia, Africa, and that "we have been braiding our hair for centuries." "In many African tribes braided hairstyles were a unique way to identify each tribe," she continued.

Williams pointed out that braiding is a bonding experience. "People would often take the time to socialize," she wrote. "It began with the elders braiding their children, then the children would watch and learn from them. The tradition of bonding was carried on for generations, and quickly made its way across the world."

Williams closed her post with a sweet message about her daughter, saying that she's "honored to share this bonding experience" with her.

See the post, below.

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FROM THE WORLD WIDE WEB
Courtesy of Adidas

The Stan Smiths are a must-have

Adidas just shared its capsule of sneakers paying tribute to Keith Haring, and TBH I can already feel my wallet emptying (and they're not even on sale yet). The new collection features three shoe silhouettes, all including the late artist's iconic imagery as embroidered designs.

The standout style of the collection is the Rivalry hi-top; with bright blue and orange stripes and piping along the edges, Haring's stars and cartoon bodies, in black thread, pop right off. If you're looking for something less over-the-top, the quirky white Nizza Hi RF sneakers show a snake wrapping around the back of the shoe and chasing one of Haring's cartoon bodies toward the toe. There's also a minimal embroidered design on the toe of a classic Stan Smith pair. Look a little more closely at the tongue though, and you'll notice the traditional image has been swapped with a caricature of Haring himself.

Peep the three silhouettes, below, and set your calendar for the official drop at the end of the month.

Adidas, Rivalry Hi Keith Haring Shoes, $120, available at Adidas starting at 10am EST on June 30.

Adidas, Nizza Hi RF Haring Shoes, $120, available at Adidas starting at 10am EST on June 30.

Adidas, Stan Smith Keith Haring Shoes, $120, available at Adidas starting at 10am EST on June 30.

NYLON uses affiliate links and may earn a commission if you purchase something through those links, but every product chosen is selected independently.


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Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images, Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images

Hopefully this one will be typo-free

In an Instagram Live on Thursday, Taylor Swift announced that she would be creating a collaboration with fashion designer Stella McCartney inspired by her upcoming Lover album. Although she kept it vague, we can only assume that the two are working on a collection of luxe merch.

Swift noted in the announcement that she has been friends with McCartney "for a really long time," and that the designer already heard the new album. "I respect what she creates, how she creates it," Swift continued. "There's so much whimsy and imagination and romance to the clothing that she designs." Swift has been wearing McCartney's designs "a lot recently," so maybe we should have seen the collab coming.

One eagle-eyed fan pointed out that Swift wore Stella McCartney rainbow-hued shoes during her Wango Tango set. If the collab is anything like these shoes, you can bet I'll be copping it as quick as I can.

Swift detailed in her Instagram Live that the album Lover would be all about romance, which makes McCartney and her feminine designs perfect for the collaboration. We just hope that this collection doesn't have any typos, like some of Swift's "ME!" merch did.

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Photo by Kevin Winter/Getty Images

And spreads the message that "we all got crowns"

Late on Thursday, Taylor Swift dropped a new single, "You Need To Calm Down," and announced her forthcoming studio album, Lover, out this August. Following her lead single "ME!" Swift continues to spread her message of self-love and call out haters—particularly the homophobic ones—in this latest song.

Swift "ended homophobic locals," as one fan put it on Twitter, with one particular lyric: "'Cause shade never made anybody less gay."

Along with the song, Swift shared a lyric video via YouTube which made her sentiments even clearer. With her lyric, "Why are you made?/ When you could be glad?" she spelled "glad" as "GLAAD," referencing the queer media advocacy organization.

Swift sings of homophobic protestors in the second verse: "Sunshine on the street at the parade/ But you would rather be in the dark ages/ Makin' that sign must've taken all night." In the pre-chorus, she adds, "You just need to take several seats and then try to restore the peace/ And control your urges to scream about all the people you hate."

Swift additionally comments on women being pitted against each other—"We see you over there on the internet comparing all the girls who are killin' it"—asserting that "we all got crowns." There's nothing trolls can do to rain on her parade anymore.

One fan pointed out the possible symbolism of the crown lyric. In "Call It What You Want," track 14 on Reputation, she sings "They took the crown but it's alright." Now on "You Need To Calm Down," track 14 of Lover, she sings that there's not just one crown—we all have them.

Some fans are pointing to the double meaning of the track title. If I had a dollar for every time someone said those words to me in a totally condescending way, I'd probably be richer than her! What woman hasn't been told to calm down about an entirely not-calm situation or while expressing their distaste?

During Swift's live stream for the release of the song, she also announced a fashion collaboration with designer Stella McCartney, a peek of which we got during the singer's WangoTango performance.

Lover is set for August 23 release.

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Credit: Frederick Elmes/ Focus Features

"I was like, 'Did I sleep with this critic's girlfriend, or what?'"

The day I meet Jim Jarmusch, the sun hangs so bright and hot and yellow and solid in the sky that it's hard to believe that it will actually set at night. It's one of those New York June days that suggests we might be in permanent daylight; it's got a completely different feeling than the crepuscular atmosphere of Jarmusch's latest film, The Dead Don't Die, which takes place in a small town in what feels like one long twilight, maybe the last one.

But for today, Jarmusch and I are sitting at a table in a sun-filled restaurant, though we're in the shade. We're in a part of the city that used to be very punk rock, and is now very NYU, yet being there with Jarmusch, who looks so at home, like he's holding court in the booth (it helps that Larry Fessenden, an old friend of Jarmusch's and a writer/director/producer/actor, who appears in The Dead Don't Die, happens by the table to say hi), makes the area feel a little punk rock again, even with all the sun.

The Dead Don't Die is a very punk rock zombie movie, by which I mean: It's not very scary, but it is very cool, and even when it's sneering, it's a little bit tender. Starring Bill Murray, Adam Driver, and Chloë Sevigny as a trio of small-town cops who fight back against a nascent zombie apocalypse caused by fracking, the film is cast with a who's who of Jarmusch regulars, like Steve Buscemi, Tilda Swinton, Iggy Pop, and Fessenden, to name a few; but it also features younger stars like Caleb Landry Jones, Selena Gomez, and Luka Sabbat—and there's a real earworm of a theme song, courtesy of Sturgill Simpson.

Below, I speak with Jarmusch about the movie, being a dilettante, and why he only reads his negative reviews—which is definitely one of the most punk rock things I've ever heard.

Photo by Gareth Cattermole/ Getty Images

This was filmed on a pretty condensed shooting schedule, right?
It was a very rough schedule. A very difficult one, actually.

We only had seven weeks to shoot, and we had to shoot Adam Driver out in three weeks because he had to be delivered to Star Wars, and the financing of the film was incredibly grueling and took a long time, so we were pushed so far that we had about one month of prep, and then three weeks with Adam. And then all these different actors coming in and out; I don't know how Carter and Josh, the two producers, organized it all. And then we'd shoot 15-hour days, and halfway through, I had walking pneumonia; I had two coats; it was 95 out; I was shaking. You know, just weird stuff like that. But it's all okay because we had such great people—our crew—everybody. And then, the visual effects were very taxing and complicated.

How did that all work together? Because there's more than one decapitated head.
Yeah, it's a mixture. First of all, we mixed prosthetics with makeup with masks for some of the zombie stuff, but all of those effects with the decapitations, we had to just imagine. So we had to choreograph everything and then only imagine kind of what it would be like, which was, for me, very abstract because I'm not very versed in visual effects. You know, you had to really kind of trust your instincts, because Adam Driver's chopping away with a machete with no blade.

It could've been a machete, it could've been a lightsaber, who knows? So, to what degree is this a sequel of Paterson with Adam Driver's character's last name being Peterson?
Well, I just do these things to amuse myself while writing, you know? Bill Murray in Broken Flowers was named Don Johnson, and in this, I gave him the name Cliff Robertson. Tilda Swinton's character is Zelda Winston. Rosie Perez is named Posie Juarez. You know, I'm just kind of amusing myself.

And Peterson, Paterson. While we were filming Paterson I was always teasing Adam that the next one, we would make was gonna be a sequel about a psychopathic murderous bus driver named Peterson. Tag line: "Get the fuck off my bus!" Or "Next Stop Hell!" You know, stuff like that. It's just to make them... I love trying to make Adam Driver laugh, because he has a very odd and wonderful sense of humor, but it's on the dry side, so I'm always joking around with him between work to try and see what makes him laugh.

But yeah, there's no sequel of any kind, and I don't think that way, and I don't plan, and I don't see my films from the past ever again. I just look toward the next thing.

Credit: Frederick Elmes/ Focus Features

What was the original concept for this? When did you start coalescing all of these different elements into knowing that you wanted it to be your next film?
Some years ago after Only Lovers Left Alive, Tilda kept teasing me, calling me, saying, "When do we do the zombies? When are we doing the zombies?" And in between I made Paterson and Gimme Danger, but then after those I started writing the zombie one, and my original conception was: I wanna make a film that's really funny and silly like Coffee and Cigarettes, where people talk about whatever nonsense I want them to, and I want to get actors I love, you know? So I thought, okay, if I make a zombie film, I can have a structure where different groups are cordoned off against the zombies, and the zombie attacks will be intermittent and not very long, so I'll have long lags where they're just stuck there, like in the house of The Night of the Living Dead, where they can talk about any kind of nonsense. So that was my first idea, and then when I started writing it, for some reason, I wanted to have a small town, Centerville, and I just followed my intuition, and it became this, I don't really know why beyond that.

What is it about small towns that make them the perfect setting for existential terror?
They're insular. They're kind of… everyone kind of knows each other. It's controllable by the characters. It's believable that everyone kind of know each other. I don't know. I'm not very good at analyzing that. And also, this is not a horror film because horror films use devices that are necessary to frighten people, like suspense, and then you get scared. We have no interest whatsoever in that. This is more of a metaphorical zombie film, but I would not call it a horror movie. It's a comedy with zombies with a kind of sad ending. Beyond that, I don't know what it is.

And horror nerds may not like it if they're expecting creepy, creepy, scary thing! They're not gonna get it. They're not gonna get that delivered to them.

What's interesting about it is seeing who fights back against this existential dread. Or, like, Chloë Sevigny's character, Mindy, doesn't fight, she is on her own separate trip, avoiding the end till she embraces it.
It's a character film. It's not even a plot film, really, although critics say that about all my films. But Chloë… it's a complicated thing, because when I first called Chloë, I told her... I wrote her a letter, and then she said, "Yeah, yeah I'd like to do this." And I said, obviously, this is not a feminist character. She's reactive. She's our sort of "Scream Queen." She screams like six times. But Chloë is the master of reaction, and I love watching her react.

She definitely feels like a stand-in for what a normal person would feel during these absurdist experiences, which is nice to have. It's not necessarily that you need a relatable character in a movie like this, but...
Yeah, but she's an empathetic human that's in a job with some authority, but in a small town where that means taking care of whatever, you know, as a police officer, pretty minimal [stuff]. There's not a lot of rampant crime or anything going on… or anything at all, really.

Credit : Frederick Elmes / Focus Features

A lot of people are going to be projecting tons of different meanings onto this film, like with all your films. To what level do you participate in that or pay attention to that? Or, once you're done making a film, is it just out there, and you just let people project onto it whatever they will?
I've always felt that anyone's interpretation of a film that I write and direct is probably more valid than my own. Because it's a funny thing, the beauty of films is going into a world—or a book or whatever—but going into a world that you don't know, and you are entering a world, and it takes you. And if you wrote it, and you were there filming it, and you're in the editing room every day for six months, the mix, and all that... I can never possibly see it. I like hearing what friends or people I know... I like Q and As after screenings because they have no agenda except their interest. I like that a lot, and I value that. I don't really like to read a lot of reviews unless they're really negative. I love the negative ones.

You do?
Yeah, because they must be very far from me in their perception of the world, and that is interesting to me. But I try not to read a lot...

I think you're probably the first person who I've ever spoken to who says they like to read the negative reviews.
I really like them. The worst one I ever got in my life, I laminated and used to carry in my wallet. It was a brief thing from a right-wing French [paper], maybe Le Figaro or something, of a film called Dead Man that we made, and they said—this is the English translation—"The French intelligence celebrates Jarmusch in the way death and blind parents would celebrate their retarded child. Jarmusch is 33 years old, the same age as Christ when he was crucified. We can only hope the same for his film career." I was like, Whoa! That is harsh! I'm keeping that one!

It gets personal.
But that was vicious. I was like, Did I sleep with this critic's girlfriend, or what? What happened? It was really... the knife was sharpened, you know.

That speaks to a very specific kind of agenda for sure.
A friend of mine Amos Poe, he's sort of a mentor of mine, a punk filmmaker, whatever, and when we were young when he made, in the late-'70s, one of his films—The Foreigner or Unmade Beds—the New York Times called it "the cinematic equivalent of kindergarten scribbling," and he put that on his posters and put "New York Times" and we were like punks, we were like, "Yes! Amos! That's great!"

I mean, it genuinely is a pretty great pull quote, and I think also a little bit oblivious to the charms of a kindergartener's scribbles and what the value is in that anyway.
Yeah, it was kind of accurate in a positive way, and they intended it as very negative.

In this film, there are so many actors who are veteran actors, but there are also a lot of younger actors. What do you like about the combination of that dynamic?
I just like the variety of sort of world perceptions—indicated in a very minor way when Bill Murray's character says, "I've known Hermit Bob since we were in junior high," and Adam's character says, "Oh, wow! That must've been like 50 years ago!" And Bill says, "Yeah. It was." But just the kind of difference of perception of age I find as I get older really interesting. And I'm very interested in young people, especially teenagers, because I think they form our sense of style, of music, of so many things, and yet they're kind of pushed around and treated badly and constantly told, "You don't know how the world really works! You're just a teenager!" But they gave us poetry. They gave us Mary Shelley and Rimbaud and chess masters, and all the great music comes a lot from teenagers. So I tried to keep a pulse, that's why the three teenagers, I would not let them turn into zombies. There are only four people [who don't get turned by zombies]: those three that are delinquents, and the Tom Waits character, who's already removed himself from the social order long before.

When the zombies become zombies, they all have one inciting thing that they're still pursuing in the real world. Do you have one thing that you think you would pursue if you were a zombie?
You know, it's hard because I'm a self-proclaimed dilettante. I'm interested in so many things, I don't know if I would be breaking into a bookstore, or if I would be in the alley outside of a movie theater, or if I would be trying to get into a guitar shop. I'm not sure. I have a lot of interests.

I mean there's a way in which it's a really tender portrayal of the human impulse to just seek out these things that they love.
It's not totally a critique; it's their vestigial memory of some things that they were drawn toward, whether it was power tools or oxycontin.

The Dead Don't Die is in theaters now.

Credit: Frederick Elmes/ Focus Features